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ALL HANDS ON DECKS
The island-hopping holiday with wine-tasting, world-famous parties and one of Europe’s most beautiful beaches
Your time will mostly be spent kicking back above deck, with a drink in hand
IGNORE Ibiza, forget Faliraki.
A sailing trip around the rugged coastlines of Croatia is the new way for the young (and young at heart) to travel.
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Setting sail from the glamorous port city of Split, I joined dozens of like-minded travellers on a fleet of boats for an island-hopping odyssey featuring zipwires, wine tasting and wild parties.
This is Sail Croatia’s flotilla package, targeted at the under-40s, where guests explore ancient cobblestoned fishing villages by day and party all night long at a pulsating nightclub.
The summer sun is scorching, so it was a relief to climb aboard and step below deck into the cool shade.
Incognito, our floating home for the week, was sleek and modern — the cabins cosy but practical, while the spacious lounge and compact kitchen had all the essentials for a comfortable stay.
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My time was mostly spent kicking back above deck, with a drink in hand, the wind in my hair and music in my ears courtesy of Incognito’s swish sound system.
Captain Bruno was the heart and soul of our Croatian chronicles, and his knowledge of these islands and local history added a rich, personable layer to our voyage.
Our first overnight stop was the sleepy town of Milna on Brac, the largest of more than 70 islands skirting the mainland.
After a refreshing sunset dip, I got to know my shipmates over a dinner of freshly caught seafood on the quayside (I’d followed Bruno’s lead by opting for a deliciously rare tuna steak).
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While Bruno hails from these shores, six Kiwis completed Incognito’s group.
An even smattering of solo and group travellers over a broad age spectrum made for a lively atmosphere, washing down the first night’s dinner with cocktails galore.
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Not too many, though, as our four-hour journey — our longest single sail of the trip — began the next morning.
And the destination was worth the wait.
The island of Vis has a long and secretive history.
Due to its strategic military significance, it only opened to tourism in 1991 and has since become famous for its unspoilt beauty.
The Quad Safari Military Tour, an optional extra (€70pp, quadsafarivis.com) offered by Sail Croatia, was a highlight.
Charming and knowledgeable tour guide Matej led our convoy of ATVs (similar to quad bikes) around empty mountain roads and along dusty gravel tracks beside lush olive groves.
We unearthed secret underground bunkers used by the former Yugoslav Army, as well as a landing strip once used by RAF bombers in World War II.
Stop by the pekara (bakery) on the way back into town for some local burek, a flaky, fresh puff pastry stuffed with cheese and spinach.
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Thank me later.
If you don’t fancy touring by ATV, take a hike to the spell-bindingly spectacular Stiniva Beach, once voted Europe’s most beautiful.
A short taxi trip from the old town takes you to a clifftop where you’ll find a rocky pathway leading to the secluded and majestic cove.
But be sure to wear appropriate footwear — the trek is far from a walk in the park.
Sadly, our stop on the party island of Hvar was cut short as bad weather closed world-famous nightclub Carpe Diem.
But this didn’t rain on our parade as Bruno grabbed his waterproofs and the Kiwis pulled out the whisky while we huddled together to witness the epic storm.
Our final stopover was back on the mainland, in the upmarket town of Makarska.
Showers in the marina allowed us to freshen up before the last supper (and the best of the trip) at Restaurant Point in an idyllic town square.
I plumped for the surf and turf, served with black truffle and pappardelle in a creamy white wine sauce.
'SPECTACULAR NIGHT'
The tender steak and fresh prawns went down well with a glass of Trnjak riserva, fruity and rich.
Living up to Croatia’s party-loving reputation, we followed dinner with a visit to Deep Makarska — aka Rave In A Cave — which delivered a spectacular night that only ended when the sun came up.
The three-hour sail north back to Split flashed by as the entire group (except poor Bruno) slept off their hangovers.
But there was still time for one last activity at our final destination.
Zipline Croatia in Omis, a 40-minute minibus ride from Split, boasts eight zip-wires stretching 2,100 metres across rocky ravines.
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Whizzing along 150 metres above the turquoise Cetina River is a mind-blowing experience, but not for the faint hearted.
That was one sure-fire way of ending the trip on a high.
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GO: CROATIA
GETTING THERE: Wizz Air flies from Luton to Split from £25.09 each way. See wizzair.com.
SAILING THERE: A seven-night Flotilla cruise costs from £699pp, departing Split on September 14 and including daily breakfasts and lunch and skipper. See sail-croatia.com.
OUT & ABOUT: Entry to Zipline Croatia, with access to eight wires, costs from €65pp. See zipline-croatia.com/en.